Still enjoying Deshaies too much to leave! We feel very safe here, as we did in Antigua and Anguilla. A measure I use is whether any boat boys or vendors come out to the boat to try to sell something. This suggests poverty and a ‘here comes a yachtie, let’s get a bit of cash’ attitude, sometimes with a real sense of indignation (or worse) if you don’t buy. St Lucia and St Vincent both suffer badly from this and both have higher rates of crime against cruisers.
Yesterday we had the pleasure of the company of 5 dolphins in the bay, slowly swimming around all the yachts and in no hurry to move on, just like us! A few yachties got into the water, hoping to encourage the dolphins closer but they didn’t come within touching distance. Our friend, Bob, was 1 of them and the dolphins did turn and swim towards him but our hoped for scene of Bob standing with a foot on each of the backs of 2 dolphins and surfing towards us wasn’t to be 🙂
Bob and Lin later hosted us for many hours, treating us to a delicious roast dinner and pastries. Long past ‘cruiser’s midnight’ we returned to Beyzano and only awoke to the sound of the church bells at 0600. We really enjoy their company and remarked that it is 1 of the great sadnesses of sailing life to think that when they move on north tomorrow, we may never see them again. On the other hand, we may all spend another few months together in Grenada if they decide to head south again.
On the topic of freedom, we are finding it incredibly difficult these days to make a decision. Shall we do the Pacific in the spring with Cornell’s new Pacific Odyssey Rally? Shall we go to Guyana and Surinam, then the western Caribbean or how about the east coast of the USA? Shall we spend 6 months in Deshaies improving our French or shall we hop islands and visit more and more bays? When we worked we didn’t value how much structure there was, a need to be somewhere at a certain time to perform a certain role. Now we are almost totally free to do whatever we like, when we like and it just makes us dither and dither!
Fortunately we have to be in Trinidad for the end of July to haul out but once we return from the UK in mid September we have absolutely no compelling reasons to take 1 path over another and hope something turns up to help with our decisions.
However, we just booked a whole day’s diving, at the Cousteau Park further down the coast. Diving is definitely cheaper here than in the Grenadines, as a 2 tank dive and lunch whilst watching turtles in a nearby bay, is only 74 GBP but this includes our 10% discount for having our own gear. They do still provide the air tanks though.
The fishing harbour is very full of local boats but the diesel pump only provides fuel for them, not the cruisers. I guess in an emergency they would help out. The bay is very pretty and there is some decent snorkelling to be had on the northern coast, not far from our boat. The swells haven’t been too bad and we have remained either facing into them or with them behind us and it has been comfortable enough. We first noticed that the swells had arrived when we returned to our dinghies after the Botanic Gardens trip and had to be a little more careful getting back into them.
The Spar supermarket has fresh and frozen meats and fish, plenty of canned and packet goods and a small deli. Our favourite shop is the boulangerie at the head of the dinghy dock as their miniature donuts (apple, chocolate or sugar) are wonderful. Deshaies is small but really easy to settle into, especially if you are prepared to speak French. Local shopkeepers clearly understand English but will always answer in French, which is fine most of the time and helps us with our conversation skills.