On 10 July we left A Coruna and made the 40 mile trip to Corme, a small Ria to the south. There wasn’t much wind so we needed to motor for a few hours. Along the way we caught 3 mackerel and the spanish version seem as suicidal as the british ones, luckily for us. They were gutted and in the frige in no time, ready for the evening meal.
Corme is a small anchorage due to the viveros in the middle of the bay and we were initially confused by 2 green markers, once large beacon shaped and unlit. This is definitely not one to leave to starboard as it is just marking several nasty looking yacht-munching rocks.
We didn’t feel there was enough space in Corme, so moved on the next day to Camarinas, said to be one of Galicia’s loveliest Rias and we weren’t disappointed. There are several sandy beaches, tons of space to anchor and good holding in the sand. There is a small, friendly marina where they didn’t want a charge for leaving our dinghy whilst we explored the town. We wandered around the streets, found several supermarkets and produce shops and a pretty restaurant near to the fishing harbour.
We passed the most western tip of mainland Europe on our way to Camarinas and stayed 3 nights there before moving around the corner to Muros and carefully sailing past Finisterre. Muros is a much larger Ria with several anchorages and a marina at Portosin. We looked into the anchorage off Muros town initially but it looked quite rough so we anchored in San Francisco Bay which is sheltered from northerlies, just off the beach in sand. The holding was good and we stayed there for 3 nights, took the dinghy to the beach and just generally relaxed.
The water was so clear you could see the anchor but also a line of lobster pots connected by a floating line – all completely unmarked! Fortunately it was deep enough not to give us any problems but at low water it may have done. Yellow buoys mark the swimming area and there are rocks which are visible at low water, coming off the beach. The local fishing fleet proved interesting to watch as one evening one of the larger boats seemed to be completely wrapped up in its own nets. Whilst we were anchored we also had visits from locals sailing dinghies or rowing around the bay and everyone was very friendly, shouting ‘welcome, friend’ or ‘hola’ and waving to us.
We had some hot days in Muros, enough to prove the dough for my first loaf of bread. Admittedly from a pack but it looked right and tasted lovely!
Haslar Marina has 6 boats in this year’s ARC which is a high proportion. We met up with one of them, Saltwhistle III, in Muros for drinks on Beyzano and a meal on board their boat. The wind had picked up so much they couldn’t row their dinghy back so we got our outboard down and towed them over. There was plenty of space in Muros town anchorage but some boats were dragging their anchors. Dinghies can be left on the slipway or tied to some steps (remembering the tidal range of 3m) but there are rocks by the steps at low water.
On July 16th the town has a fiesta with a waterborne procession, keenly contested rowing race and a spectacular fireworks display at midnight for which we had the perfect view.
Today we left for Portosin Marina as we wanted to check back into the world and have Wi-Fi after 9 nights just anchored. Not too much to deal with on email but our engine is playing up and wouldn’t idle. On final approach to the pontoon the engine cut out and wouldn’t restart so it was an interesting ‘float’ onto the jetty instead but we made it without incident. The more interesting part is explaining to the engineer the problems and understanding his replies but Machteld kindly stepped in to assist with translating for us 🙂
We will stay here until the engine is happy again and it could be days if specific parts need to be sourced. We plan to buy fresh food and visit Noia which is a town of historical importance with markets and picturesque streets. If we have time we will also make a trip to Santiago de Compostela and Galicia Day is July 25th when there are huge celebrations throughout the region.
So far we are having a wonderful time 🙂