Beyzano

We left Nevis by 1030 on Tuesday and had a good sail past St Kitts, Statia and Saba, all islands we hope to visit in the future. There was quite a lot of swell though, on the beam and the winds were between 15 and 23 knots for the majority of our 168 miles to Tortola. On my 0000 – 0200 watch the wind kicked up to 30 knots with a rain shower thrown in and I had to raise Rob to help me reduce sail as we were tearing along!

Soper's Hole Tortola

Even with 2 reefs in the main and 2 in the genoa we were making over 7 knots and as we approached Salt Island Passage at the BVIs it was still dark, so we had to take in the genoa altogether to slow down to 5 kts and the sun had risen by the time we went between the islands. I was very uneasy approaching the islands in the dark and would have turned around rather than go in.

Beyzano Moored in Soper's Hole

We sailed here in 2007 with our friends John and Freda and enjoyed the short hops and lovely bays. It was very easy sailing and a great holiday but now we are cruisers rather than holiday-makers the BVI are probably not the best place for us anymore. The first issue was clearance, which I undertook in the offices in Soper’s Hole. They were unable to clear the 3 of us in as Jack is either leaving on a flight or perhaps as crew on another boat as he wants to return to St Lucia but we have no tickets or date yet. In the end I had to say we would take him out of the BVI with us, which we may have to do.

We came here to meet some UK friends who leave on 2 Feb but another couple are arriving on 20 Feb to sail with us for 2 weeks. Unfortunately we are not allowed to stay here more than 30 days without seeking an extension at the HQ in Road Town and paying a boat temporary importation tax, which we don’t want to do. Instead we need to clear out and back in later on, via the USVI if the noonsite information is correct. So next week we will get a ferry to the American side, obtain a visa and return here to get the boat.

Another problem for cruisers is that most of the area has mooring buoys laid which is good for holiday-makers as they don’t have to worry about anchoring, dragging and swinging room but at 25 US$ a night, the costs soon add up. Water is charged at 25US$ for 100 gallons so it is still far cheaper for us to run the generator and make our own. Food and eating out is also much more expensive here than further down the chain as the area is full of charter boats with plenty of money to spend.

We were lucky to find a couple of empty moorings in Soper’s Hole as we arrived at about 1030 but noticed that it is rare that there are many free by mid morning as when one boat leaves, another quickly takes its place. As we work around the BVI we will try to update the cruising pages with the current situation on different islands.

Not All Sunshine in the Caribbean

This all said, the area is beautiful and we are looking forward to exploring it again and heading up to Anegada, the reef island north of Richard Branson’s Necker pad.

Cleaned Up!

The decks got a good scrub this morning during a heavy rain shower. Rob and I both got into our swimwear and took a brush each to clean everything after the trip from Nevis had left a covering of salt. The boat isn’t looking too bad for all the miles she has done. We hired some scuba gear and Jack scrubbed the barnacles off the prop which has been in the water since May and was completely encrusted. We will haul the boat out in September/October when she will need another good cleaning off as the warmer water is having an impact.

Golden Rocks Plantation Gardens

Jack had a go at catching some fish yesterday as it is allowed here according to a local fisherman. No luck though, so he cooked us a brocolli in cheese sauce with mash for last night’s dinner instead.

Jack Feeling Seasick Fishing From the Dinghy!

If he had caught a lobster like the ones we had at Sunshine’s Bar that would have been a result. The fisherman told us to creep up behind one with a cable and snare it with that but we haven’t seen any!

Delicious Lunch at Sunshine's Bar

Today we took a 2 hour taxi tour of the island, finishing at Nesbit Plantation for lunch on the beach. The hotels at the former plantations are beautifully restored and the gardens are lush and cool.

The location of the restaurant at Nesbit’s Resort is also stunning and the food was excellent too.

Grounds at Nesbit's

As we have Jack with us, we had a rare photo taken of Rob and I together. It is now 7 months since we left the UK and we are still smiling

Rob and Me - 7 Months On

When we returned I cleared out at customs ready for our sail to the BVI tomorrow. We leave around 1100 and will sail overnight to Tortola so need to prepare some food and get a good night’s sleep.

Offices at Charlestown

The sail across to Guadeloupe from Les Saintes was uneventful although once in the lee of the island the wind became very variable. We spent the night in Deshaies, a beautiful bay on the NW tip of Guadeloupe and full of boats heading north or just arrived from Antigua.

Beautiful Anchorage of Deshaies in Guadeloupe

We anchored and lit the BBQ but a catamaran decided to anchor in front of us and ended up with their boat on top of our anchor. Rob and I paddled over to let them know we would be leaving at 2am and may have to wake them and they were fine with that. In the event the wind shifted slightly and we didn’t need to disturb them when we left.

Sun Rising Over Montserrat

We had a lovely night sail towards Montserrat at good speed and saw the sun rising over the volcano. It was quite a sight with the smoke pouring out of the sides and the lava stream stretching into the sea. We didn’t stop this time but will in the future.

Activity on Montserrat as we sail by

The wind died as we got nearer to Nevis and we had to motor for 3 hours to get in before dark. Having only 12 hours of daylight is something we are getting used to now and plan our passages to arrive before sunset if possible. Deshaies is an easy bay to leave at night except for a few lobster pots which we located and noted on the way in.

Mooring Area at Nevis

Nevis is beautiful with a long beach where the Port Authority has laid 100 mooring buoys. Some are missing the long pick up line, so be careful to get one which has or the mooring buoy bangs into the hull all night! You need a boat hook, rather than a moorfast, to grab the line as it isn’t a solid hoop as in Les Saintes. It was 77 miles from Deshaies and there are lobster pots off the southern coast of Nevis and it is also very shallow for quite a long way out.

View from Beyzano

Clearance takes an hour or more, as you need to visit 3 separate offices in Charlestown. I took the dinghy to the dock behind the ferry terminal and a local man helped me in, took the garbage and showed me where the customs office was. You are not allowed to lock your dinghy to the dock here, in case the fishing boats need to move them.

Customs cost 30 EC$, then on to the police station to get the passports stamped, then to the Port Authority to get the harbour dues etc paid, which amounted to 153 EC$ and finally back to the Customs office to get a boat pass to St Kitts in case we want to go there. We are planning to stay here a few days, so I paid for the 3-7 day pass to give us some leeway as it is only 5 US$ more than the 1-2 day pass. If we don’t stop in St Kitts I need to visit customs again here and clear out, with 24 hours notice. There are a couple of museums we want to visit in town, plus take a bus to the other side of the island for a meal in one of the restored plantation mansions.

Entering the Indian River

Anyone sailing to Dominica should try to be anchored in Portsmouth on a Sunday evening as the local yacht services organisation arranges a beach BBQ from 7pm for around 12 pounds each. They supply lots of rum punch, fruit juice and food plus a really good DJ and we ended up dancing the night away on the sand. It raises funds for the security in the bay and was a brilliant night and good opportunity to meet other cruisers and the local families. One young boy got up on the stage and did a Michael Jackson number with all the moves to loud applause.

Earlier in the day Rob and I went on the Indian River tour, with our guide Andrew. We passed wrecked ships on the beach, one blocking the river entrance, which forced the locals to dig out a new river mouth. We had to be rowed the rest of the way, through the unspoilt and fascinating vegetation., spotting kingfishers, hummingbirds, herons, land crabs and a variety of tropical trees. It was incredibly peaceful and in one area he showed us where part of Pirates of the Caribbean 2 was filmed, a short time when the area was invaded by film crews and all the stars.

River Mouth Blocked By Hurricane Wreck

Our friends from Halsway Grace were there and both boats sailed to Les Saintes just south of Guadeloupe yesterday, cracking along despite the beam on swell. We seem to hurtle between islands these days so our passages are quick but the winds shift around the headlands and gust down the valleys, so caution is needed. Once out in the open the wind stayed constant though. The approach to Les Saintes from the south also needs care as there is a reef to the eastern side. The old anchorage off the main town Terre de Haut is now filled with mooring buoys marked with the allowed length of yacht and ours cost us 11 euros for the night. They have large hoops on the top so the ‘moorfast’ stick we bought for the solent came out of the locker – great piece of kit.

Town Hall

Customs has changed venue, so instead of the town hall, it is now in the internet café just after the square on the right and up stairs between the shops. It is called LSM (Les Saintes Multi-service) and they also deliver bread, collect garbage etc. There is only 1 terminal for immigration, so there was a queue but it is the same self-service form as in Martinique. You can then sail on to Guadeloupe without clearing out from Les Saintes.

Another Town Another Bar

The town is very pretty but the most tourist focussed we have visited so far. Lots of nice restaurants, expensive boutiques, a stall selling crepes and ice-creams on the square and a few supermarkets. You can hire mopeds and next visit we will tour the island to find the good beaches which all the day trippers seem to come over in the ferry for.

Approaching Les Saintes

The bay is very ‘rolly’ though and the boat moved constantly. Together with the tourist shops this was a negative for us and we much preferred Dominica.

Our next stop is the NW tip of Guadeloupe on our way to Monserrat or Nevis if we make good time.

What an amazing island Dominica is. Despite the negative press we have found the people so welcoming and feel perfectly safe here. In both Roseau and Portsmouth (home from home!) the local marine industry has addressed their poor reputation by organising into authorised groups, providing security patrols and excellent services.

4th Rum, Getting Dark - Anyone know where we left the dinghy??

Whilst using Pancho’s mooring outside his house in Roseau, we saw the local fishermen casting a circular net, throwing stones into the water to frighten the fish and bashing the water with an oar. At the last minute, as the circle closed, one of them dived into the water but we aren’t sure exactly what he did. But they then dragged up the net with a few fish trapped inside.

Local Fishing Technique

We also met the local security patrol who were going about the anchorage at night without lights, circling each boat and checking everything was OK. They are also the rescue service.

Rainbow Over Portsmouth, Dominica

This morning we left Roseau after filling up the water tanks for 7 pounds at the Drop Anchor dock and moved north to Prince Rupert’s Bay and Portsmouth. Not quite the same as the city we left in June last year – more rain today! The rainbows are worth the drenching though.

Tomorrow we are being picked up to take the indian river tour by row boat to see the beautiful vegetation and wildlife. Our guide is Andrew from Seabird, one of several approved boat services providers. He also met us many miles out before we got near Portsmouth and helped us onto the mooring buoy in the sheltered north of the bay. We usually anchor as we feel safer but in an effort to support the local community and their great efforts to establish services to yachts we have used their moorings throughout our time in Dominica.

To fund their security patrol they hold a beach BBQ tomorrow evening and for around 12 pounds you get the meal, dancing until late and rum and fruit juice. Can’t wait

We sailed the few miles from Fort de France to Saint Pierre on the NW tip of Martinique intending to leave the following day to Dominica. The customs office in Marin has a notice in the window with the opening times of the other clearance offices and Saint Pierre was supposed to be open during the afternoon until 1800.

Quiet Saint Pierre Anchorage

The anchorage was roomy on first glance but the beach shelves very quickly to over 30 metres so you need to get in close to the shore. We were there by 1400 so found a good spot, anchoring in good holding black sand, next to our friends on Halsway Grace.

Another excellent dinghy dock and short walk up the hill to the Tourist Office by 1430 just led to a closed office with a notice of their opening hours, 0900 – 1400 and only Monday to Friday. Perhaps the Marin customs officer doesn’t know the satellite offices don’t open when he thinks they do!!

There was nothing for it but to wander around the town, which is full of the history of the volcanic eruption in 1902 which killed all the former thriving town’s inhabitants of almost 30K people, except for 2, one in his cellar and the other in the jail. There is a museum and countless ruined buildings.

Saint Pierre

A few shops, an Esso station for our outboard petrol but the fuel was very expensive – better to buy on another island.

We had drinks with Robin and Sue as we watched the sun go down and then ate out for a change, at Le Tamaya, a small French restaurant which is to the right of the dinghy dock in the road behind, where 2 courses with wine was 90 euros for the 3 of us. There is a nautical theme to the place and the service was friendly.

St Pierre Dinghy Dock

The next morning I was off in the dinghy to look at the market on the seafront, bought 2 huge avocados for 1 euro each and was outside the Tourist Office waiting to clear out by 0830. They actually opened early and being first in the queue I was back on the boat and we were motoring out of the anchorage by 0930.

Approaching Scott's Head - Dominica

We had a brilliant sail across to Roseau, the capital of Dominica, being moored up by 1500 having logged 40 nm. Fantastic sailing, none of that downwind rubbish!! Beyzano bombs along when she is sailing to windward.

As we approached Roseau a couple of the yacht service boats (aka boat boys) came out to meet us. Both Pancho and SeaCat are mentioned in the sailing guide, so we knew they were reliable. Pancho was the first to greet us, took our bow line through one of the mooring buoys right outside his house, took me off to the customs office in the cruise ship terminal, which is quite a way from the anchorage and gave us the code for his Wi-Fi. He will also take our laundry, get supplies and can organise tours of the island or snorkelling trips to the marine park.

Roseau Anchorage & Mooring Area

The mooring is about 7 pounds a night and being close to the shore and his house we felt very secure there. The buoy is attached to a huge seabed block and the lines all look well maintained. His own boat is not though, but has a huge engine so we travelled at a shocking speed despite the leaks! I was at customs in no time and the process was quick and uneventful and gives us clearance both in and out, so if we stay less than a fortnight I don’t need to go back again, which makes life much easier. There are rocks close to the shore but sand once the water deepens, so the moorings seemed a better option this time.

Dominica is beautiful, so lush and the mountains are completely covered in thick vegetation. It rains a lot, briefly, so no wonder the island is so green. The people are very helpful and welcoming and have a great sense of humour.

We went into town today to soak up some of the local culture and will stay here for a few days before heading off to ‘The Saintes’ which are less than 15 nm from the north of the island. The weather forecast gave increased winds for a couple of days but Saturday looks a good day to move north and we are making good progress to the BVI.

The city centre was vibrant and full of little shops with great characters manning them. We stumbled across Old Stone Grill & Bar in Castle Street which had a great atmosphere with a cool interior, stone walls and ceiling fans. They also let us use their internet connection at the bar. Their menu offers spare ribs, jerk pork, fish, chicken and local specialities such as curried goat but the shrimps in coconut cream, rum, tomato, tropical fruits and mushrooms was my favourite! The prices are all very reasonable, much cheaper than the French islands at around 15 pounds for 2 courses.

We tied up the dinghy at the Dominica Marine Centre, a jetty with fuel and water available and another bar with Wi-Fi. Again, the staff are laid back, friendly and helpful. Many offer island tours and all the taxi drivers are trained in natural history.

Marin was a great anchorage and the Leader Price supermarket was a useful find, having its own dinghy dock to which trolleys can easily be taken, meant a heavy load of bottles and cans isn’t a problem!

The internet café is within 5 minutes walk of the marina and also has a launderette, so you can do the washing as well as your emails. The owner speaks perfect English and is very helpful.

View of Grande Anse d'Arlet from Beyzano

We had a quick sail from Marin past Diamond Rock, which the British occupied to annoy the French but looking at it you can’t imagine how they managed to get cannons up there as it is sheer and small. Napoleon had to send troops to salvage some of his pride as the rock is very close to the mainland.

Sailing Towards Diamond Rock

We sailed with just the genoa up the coast to Grande Anse D’Arlet, a stunning bay with the clearest turquoise water teeming with fish and for the first time we could snorkel over our anchor to check it was dug in, even in 7 metres. This was our second attempt at anchoring though due to the countless lobster pots littering the bay and we had to cut off one pot which had fouled the anchor and narrowly missed getting another in our prop. A night entry would be difficult just because of the pots but there is nothing else to avoid.

Grande Anse Anchorage from the Beach

The number of wrecked yachts is very sad to see, another 2 being on the northern shore of Grande Anse.

Wrecked Yacht Ashore

We dinghied ashore to walk along the beach which was quite busy at the weekend with day trippers from Fort de France. There was still plenty of room at the many beachfront restaurants though. Every day we swam, sometimes at 7am but often throughout the day to cool down. Tony and Hazel from Longbow came over for sundowners one evening and we could happily have stayed in the bay for ages. On the way back south we probably will!

A fast sail in up to 31 knots of wind yesterday, took us to Fort de France, the main city. Our anchor windlass is slipping again and now we use it all the time we want to get parts to rectify the problem. In Chris Doyle’s sailing guide he rates Sea Services but they didn’t have much in the way of stock, so we may have to return to Marin and the chandleries there to get everything we need. Fortunately we still have 3 weeks to get to the BVI, plenty of time.

Fort de France Anchorage

The anchorage is very pretty, with a fort providing shelter and a very long purpose built dinghy dock by the beach. There are ladders and metal hoops along it for locking the dinghy up and easy access.

Rob Waiting for the Taxi - Jack & our dinghy!

A cruise liner dock is just behind us, one huge ship just left and glided very serenely into the sunset. Robin and Sue from Halsway Grace are also anchored here, so I zipped over in the dinghy earlier to say hello and we spoke to them and other ARC boats on the SSB net last night at 6pm. I am looking forward to exploring the town today but for Wi-Fi we are currently sat in McDonalds!

Another Lovely Anchorage - Free of Charge

The watermaker duly behaved, having been fitted with the new filters and made us over 100 litres to top us the tank yesterday but we are now wearing as little as possible, not because of the washing but because it is too hot. All the t-shirts we have may be cotton but unless they are very light, they are just too heavy and hot to wear.

We swopped over our last genoa for the smaller one today as it has a better shape and the wind wasn’t too strong for a change. Next we have to find the parts for the windlass as none of us relish pulling up 30 metres of chain by hand. Once that is sorted out we will carry on north to St Pierre for a night before crossing to Dominica.

Just a quick post to say we had a brilliant, fast sail to Marin yesterday and managed not to join the other yachts on the reefs in the bay. We anchored in 7 metres on sand at lunch time, went for a few swimming sessions to cool down and explored the town today.

Marin Anchorage

Clearance was done in the office onsite at the marina using self-service terminals and the print out was stamped without any questions. We found the Wi-Fi down in both cafes but just picked up cable connection so am able to post a few photos.

Dinghy Dock at the Supermarket

Tonight we found a supermarket with dinghy dock and are having a BBQ on the boat once we finish in the internet cafe. Rob and Jack are getting used to the new car for going shopping and were pleased with the price of wine and selection of cheeses. We are definitely on a french island now, with lovely croissants and a real french feel to the area, plus of course another chance to bring out the basic french for their amusement.

Jack and Rob Driving Our Car!

I have become more used to going ashore and being comfortable about leaving the boat out of sight and sleeping soundly through the night and we know she is dug into good holding sand.

Our Neighbour!